Religious

The Keble College chapel, an enormous red and white brick Gothic Revival building on the edge of a green quad.

Gothic Revival Masterpiece Keble College and the Quest To Destroy It

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I have no shortage of critics, be they of my writing, my comportment or my appearance. But even their numbers cannot rival those of the Destroy Keble Society.

Greetings from Keble College, one of the many colleges that make up Oxford University and, most certainly, the least popular. Discover the unsavoury source of the fortune that funded its building. Hear the horrible things that England’s brightest minds have said about its Gothic Revival style. And if you’re a member of rival St John’s College, please leave your chisel at the gate.

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The statue of the devil in Madrid, now exhibited as the Fountain of the Fallen Angel. The bronze sculpture of an angel writhes in agony, wrapped in snakes.

The Fountain of the Fallen Angel is the world’s oldest statue of the devil

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Spain would have you believe that it’s home to the world’s first and only monument to the devil. But it doesn’t know some of the people I do. This is merely the first and only one in public.

Greetings from the Fountain of the Fallen Angel in Madrid’s El Retiro park, where pride comes before, during and after the fall. Get as close as you dare to a statue commemorating the origins of evil. Ponder the strange coincidence that placed it exactly 666 metres above sea level. And remember that, no matter your sins, somebody else has almost certainly done worse.

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A view over the courtyard of San Juan de los Reyes.

Solemnity, seclusion and sin at San Juan de los Reyes Monastery

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Matthew Lewis’s novel The Monk is full of gothic obscurity. I travelled to Toledo to get as close as possible to the novel’s setting – as long as you don’t mean geographically.

Greetings from San Juan de los Reyes Monastery, where Franciscan monks lived and studied in solemnity and seclusion. Discover the corridors and chapel of the monastery built for Spanish royalty. Wonder at the possible sins and secrets kept behind the many locked doors. And succeed where the monk Ambrosio and I have failed, in staying on the path of virtue.

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A view of the front porch of Saint-Maclou Church. Flamboyant gothic stylings climb the façade, giving the appearance of a church on fire.

Saint-Maclou Church and the breakout of flamboyant gothic architecture

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There’s little risk of being burned as you explore flamboyant gothic architecture. But I do consider it my duty to warn you that you do risk being burned if you’re seen exploring it with me.

Greetings from Saint-Maclou Church, a significant spark in the outbreak of flamboyant gothic architecture in France. Find out why art historians cite it as one of the finest, fiercest examples of the style. Hear of the French and English who continued to argue as the flames rose around them. And wonder at the power of fire, as ruinous as it is purifying, in gothic architecture and beyond.

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A grainy black and white photo of Reims Cathedral from the south-west corner. The towers, excessively decorated, reach into the clear sky and out of the top of the frame.

Losing my way in the labyrinth of Reims Cathedral

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Greetings from Reims Cathedral. While supposedly not an allusion to the disorienting and processional nature of ruling, this site of French coronations was once home to a labyrinth.

In this dispatch, follow me through the winding streets of the city and try not to get lured off-course by the art deco architecture. Lose all sense of scale as you gaze at the 15-foot statues of previous monarchs that line the cathedral’s towers. And discover why a labyrinth that held four masons and an archbishop has become a symbol of France’s historical monuments.

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A 17th century illustration shows a distant view of the town and Basilica of Saint Denis.

Heading to the Basilica of Saint Denis, origin of gothic architecture

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The French town of Saint Denis is named for the bishop who, in 250AD, supposedly walked there from Montmartre – a distance of about seven kilometres – holding his own decapitated head.

Now, when you’re going through something even ever-so-slightly unpleasant, it almost never helps to consider the ways things could be worse. So, say that a thunderstorm has forced you to take refuge in an abandoned violin store. You would no doubt be cold and miserable. And while things could be worse – the violin store could be in business and flooding the world with the sharp and screeching sound of strings – the thought won’t dry your soaked clothes.

So, despite the head still attached to my body, it was with reservations that I took the metro to Saint Denis to see the oldest gothic building for myself.

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A black and white photograph of the Palais de la Cité and Sainte-Chapelle in 1916. A horse and carriage roll by on the otherwise empty street.

Visiting Sainte-Chapelle, the gothic palace French royalty abandoned

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If you’ve ever possessed a fortune large enough to spend a lot of it, you’ll know the sinking feeling that comes when you realise you probably won’t get your money’s worth.

For example, I once spent a month’s salary on a figurehead salvaged from the prow of a very famous pirate ship. I made this purchase because I believed it would bring my companion and I good luck on a perilous voyage of our own. Needless to say, it was one of the first things cut loose when our boat started taking on water – a decision which did nothing to ease my own sinking feeling.

A sinking feeling no doubt familiar to the French royal family. Because little more than 100 years after its completion in 1248, Sainte-Chapelle and the surrounding palace were abandoned. I went to see this gothic gem for myself.

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